Mount Fuji

Japan's most famous, highest, most crowded, holy mountain is always worth a visit. Most climbers reach him or rather the new fifth station of its trail by bus departing directly from Tokyo's centers. I didn't. I chose the probably most sportive and mystique way: The traditional trail starting at 800 metres above sea level in Fujiyoshida.

As I arrived in Japan at September 1st, some days after the official end of Mt. Fuji's climbing season, I chose the second weekend. I planned to start my hike in the afternoon, so I slept very long, took the Chuo line to Otsuki and changed to a small and somewhat special train to Mt. Fuji.

There was not any tourist at the station in Fujiyoshida. Nevertheless I found a tourist information and got a card of the trail. I learned that I had underestimated the length of the lower part of the trail (more than 10 km until the first 300 metres in height are done) and that it is almost 3 km to the trailhead, which gave me a chance to see a Japanese town with nice children.

The trail starts at about 800 metres above sea level at Sengen Shrine. It is a beautiful shrine and it was my first visit ever to a shrine. So I watched the visitors, went towards it, throw a coin, prayed for a safe return and clapped my hands. With the help of my poor Japanese language skills, I got introduced to the meanings of the Omamori which are sold there. Actually, the English of the young Miko was much better, though Japanese seldom admit that they can speak a foreign language until they reach a high level. She gave me one for protection and another one for power. At the photo above, you can see the gate which marks the trailhead. Behind, there is the monument for the fallen climbers. Mt. Fuji is not dangerous during the climbing season, though the height is impressive and the temperature difference is large. Here in Fujiyoshida, it is about 35 °C at daytime and not much less at night.
After the start, I met exactly three people until I reached the fifth station at about 2500 metres - two coming down and a pilgrim dressed in white.

It took me some hours to reach the first station at 1500 m above sea level. The abandoned hut and stone monuments are memories to the great times before the bus tourism was established and the road to the new fifth station was built. The second station was the final station for women in ancient times. They were not allowed to ascend higher for religious reasons.

You have to be careful not to get caught by such a trap for evil spirits, especially in the dark. The two photos above actually were made on my return. I started at Sengen Shrine at 3 pm, so the night overtook me before I reached the fourth station. The original fifth station is the first one which provides drinks and food. You have the choice between 400 yen per small bottle and prizes ascending with altitude or carrying about 6 litres on your own, as I did. After this station, I was shocked by the masses of people who hike the upper part of Mount Fuji. I continued my way towards the top, reaching it at around 4 am. I felt very cool while waiting for the sun at temperatures around freezing point and a heavy storm blowing the sand through the air. Nevertheless the sunrise is magnificent.

There is quite a large shrine near the crater. Its deity, the goddess Konohana Sakuya Hime, protects the region around the sacred mountain from eruptions. The way back to Fujiyoshida was comparatively fast. It is not dangerous at all though the last part of the trip which took me almost 24 hours without any sleep was a little painful. But you forget this when hiking on such a beatiful trail.